History of Rudgwick

Stan Smith’s History of Rudgwick

RPS logo cleaned ColourStan Smith, who founded the Society, originally wrote this for Rudgwick Preservation Society in 2001.

The Parish of Rudgwick lies in the heart of the Low Weald and to the North West of the County of West Sussex. It is bounded by the Surrey/Sussex border running along the ridge of rising ground which gave the parish its name – “Regwick” (1210) – “the farm on the ridge”. The Parish Church stands on the ridge dominating the whole area.

1777 Copy Andrews & Drury
John Andrews and Andrew Drury published this map in 1777. One of the earliest attempts to map the countryside in detail, it is full of fascinating inaccuracies and different spellings, alongside broadly correct mapping, to tantalise the modern reader

The local brickworks (now closed) used clays laid down millions of years ago when Rudgwick was on the shore of a very large pre-historic lake. It was in 1985, whilst excavating brick clay, that the bones of a unique dinosaur identified as Polacanthus Rudgwickensis was found. The importance of this discovery is that there are only two other unconfirmed dinosaurs of this species to be found in the World, both in the United States. This species roamed the earth about 100 million years ago. The bones are in the Natural History Museum.

There are few clear remains of pre-historic man in the Weald, but the Romans left much more enduring reminders of their occupation of Britain. The Romans were great road builders and nearby, to the east in Slinfold Parish, is Stane Street running between Chichester and London (A29). Another road branches off Stane Street at Rowhook crossing Rudgwick Parish into Surrey, to a Roman Temple at Farley Heath.

When the Romans left in the 5th C., the early Saxons settled in the coastal plain of Sussex and the South Downs, both fertile areas. These were more easily worked than the heavy tree-covered clay soils of the Low Weald. However, the Low Weald was exploited by the Saxons. The Weald provided woodland pasture and a source of wood and timber and “Wealden Outliers” were often separated from the coastal development by considerable distances.

The Saxon economy was largely based on transhumance, the seasonal movements of animals from one area to another. Animals were driven from the coastal settlements into the Weald to graze on the woodland pastures of these “outliers”. Large numbers of pigs were driven north in the autumn to feed upon the acorns and beech mast. The swine pastures were named “denns” by the Saxons – two fields on Tismans Common were known as the Denns. Hoglands Farm in The Haven is another reminder of the pasturing of swine in the area.

Slowly there was permanent settlement in places formerly only seasonally used by herdsmen and woodsmen. With the Norman Conquest, the Manorial System was introduced whereby all land in effect was held by the Crown. Clearance of woodland for agriculture, known as “assarting” continued after the Norman Conquest, peaking in the 13th C.; population had grown, and the demand for land continued.

Rudgwick Church about 1900, showing its two porches. The one in the tower was demolished a few years later.

Although Rudgwick does not appear in the Doomsday Book, in 1341 in the reign of Edward III, in order to raise taxes to pay for the French and Scottish Wars, the Nonae Rolls recorded the value of land and income of its inhabitants. The Church was assessed for taxation, but a sentence in the Nonae Rolls tells its own story about Rudgwick – “And they say that there are in this parish no major estates, nor any merchants, but the parishioners live off the land by their own labour.” Clearly Rudgwick was a relatively poor parish and life was hard and uneventful. It is interesting to note that Henry Husee, the assessor of the Rudgwick entry in the Nonae Rolls married Joan, the daughter of Alard.

This meant that houses built at this time have survived since occupants could not afford to rebuild. The earliest surviving timber-framed building in the Parish is Warhams in Naldretts Lane, revealed by recent dendrochronology dating to be among the oldest inhabited timber-framed buildings in the country, the earliest portion dating from between 1213 and 1239, the same age as our church, and probably built for Alard, lord of the manor of Pulborough in whose land the house was built. Other surviving houses date from about 150 years after this. Swains Cottage on Tismans Common, Woes opposite the Church, Hoglands in the Haven and Snoxalls in Bucks Green are among the oldest. The Preservation Society funded an earlier study undertaken by Diana Chatwin to accurately date some of these houses from an analysis of tree rings in the earliest timbers. Snoxalls was built in the summer of 1337, Hoglands in the Winter of 1369, Swains Cottage in 1378/9.

Rudgwick has a unique heritage of timber-framed buildings. In 1996 Diana Chatwin completed an eight year study of all 90 timber-framed buildings in the Parish and her book provides us with a fine detailed account and permanent record of these precious buildings. With the publication of this book, The Rudgwick Preservation Society has ensured that these fine old buildings help to tell the story of the shaping of Rudgwick.

The 16th C. and 17th C. was a time of great expansion and there was a dramatic change in the economy of the whole Wealden Area. Local ironworks were developed where iron-ore was plentiful and large areas of woodland provided charcoal. Here in Rudgwick an Elizabethan ironworks was set up at Dedisham, where there was both a furnace and forge (hammer). Sussex became one of the most industrialised counties in the Country. Here in North Sussex, the comparative proximity to London meant that iron, corn, leather and wood were supplied to the capital. Money thus generated saw the building of new houses and over 40 smoke-bay and chimney houses in Rudgwick survive from this period, to house the increasing population. At this time the Village of Rudgwick began to take shape.

A few houses were built around the Church from medieval times. There had been a vicar as well as a rector since the 13th C., but little remains of their original houses. The Rectory, now the Old Parsonage, is only a few yards from the Church, whilst the Old Vicarage lies a short distance down Lynwick Street. It is interesting to note that all houses were built to the west of Church Street, whereas apart from the Old Parsonage, the east side was glebe land belonging to the Rectory of Rudgwick. It was not developed for building until the beginning of the 20th C.

In the 18th C., there arose a well-to-do class referred to as yeomen, such as the Nappers, the Butchers and the Naldretts, who were lending money as mortgagors to the farming community. With the expansion of the Village at this time, a wide variety of shops and services were set up. It must be remembered that, despite the comparative prosperity, travel was restricted and without the metalled roads built at the beginning of the 19th C. – cart tracks on the clay soil were only of use during the summer months. The main road from Guildford to Horsham (the A281) was built in 1810; before that the journey to Horsham was along a clay track, almost impassable in winter, which survives today as Bowcroft Lane. As a result of this somewhat closed community, a new class of tradesmen arose such as carpenters, wheelwrights, weavers, tailors, butchers and even a peruke maker. The Old Bakehouse ( Humphreys Stores) was being used by tailors and mercers in the 18th C. An old ledger found in the roof shows that tailoring was the principal business in the early 1800s. Not only were garments made for the well-to-do residents, but they also supplied poor people on parish relief.

The next important event was the coming of the railway in 1865, when Rudgwick had a station on the Guildford-Horsham line. Travel by railway gave ordinary people greater freedom of movement. Also there were sidings at Rudgwick Station where coal and farm produce was delivered. There were also special treats, when Sunday School outings were organised for children to take a day trip to Littlehampton and Bognor , to make sand-castles and paddle in the sea.

Sadly, the railway line was closed down in 1965, just 100 years from its opening. This has now become of great amenity value since it was taken over by the Surrey and West Sussex County Councils. We have a delightful bridleway through open country called Downs Link where horse-riders, walkers and cyclists can exercise in safety. The former Rudgwick Railway Station is now the site of the Medical Centre.

Since the end of World War II, great changes have taken place in the Village. In an article written for a Preservation Society Newsletter, Jim Harrison, the head of one of our largest farm holdings recounts the changes in the farming scene. In 1946 there were more than 20 dairy farms operating in the immediate vicinity of Rudgwick. Today in the same area there are 4. In 1946 there was just one road leading off Church Street. today there are 10 leading to small estates.

Many of the original farmhouses are now quite separate from the land around them, and are lived in by people with no connection with farming. Many barns formerly used for storing hay and shelter for animals have been converted to houses.

Centred around the Parish Church is a designated Conservation Area that seeks to protect an area of timber-framed houses, adding greatly to the character of our Village. Within the Parish are over 90 timber-framed houses, all of which are listed. These fine old buildings are not only prized by their owners, but we can see them as part of our precious heritage.

It is the most important objective of the Preservation Society to protect our countryside and architecture from encroachment. Where future development can be justified, it must be planned with a view to the preservation of all existing beauties and amenities (often described as sustainability), not only here in Rudgwick, but in the whole of the beautiful Sussex countryside.

25 thoughts on “History of Rudgwick”

  1. Hello
    Is there any information about the manor house now Pennthorpe school and the buildings that served it such as gaskyns lodge. Whomever had it built must have been very weathly and at one point the manor house must have been quite important.
    In anticipation


    1. Andy
      Yes, there is. It is already on the website. Go to History, then Magazine Articles. It is the first one. If you have any further questions, please ask. I am expecting the new Pevsner on Susex to have some information on the builder as someone emailed me several months ago a dated architect’s drawing of the lodge, built perhaps after the main house by the same? architect for Frederick Barker.
      Roger Nash

  2. Walking near Swains Farm in Rudgwick, I came across a memorial stone. Badly worn but I think dedicated to AS? Amy? Later I passed a bench dedicated to Amy & Hannah Sturt who evidently died young. So poignant. Do you know the story or how I could find out? Many Thanks, Carol

    1. Dear Carol
      This is a sensible and timely enquiry. first of all, the AS stone is in memory of Holford Secretan (actually HS) who lived with his parents at Swaynes and was killed in the war, hence the timeliness for remembrance this month. On 26 may 1945, Spencer Secretan the owner of Swaynes at the time placed an advert in The Times asking for any information from returning prisoners of war on his son 2nd Lt Holford Secretan who had last been seen 22 May 1940, wounded, near Anseghem Belgium on a truck to Vichte. We now know he died of his wounds the next day. The war years must have been agonising ones for the family (Spencer was already widowed), who by all accounts were much liked in the area. Holford had been a schoolmaster at Woodbridge School Suffolk before the war.
      The Sturt children were killed in a car crash, I believe, but I do not know much more. There were two stone seats on our footpaths, but the other one was removed to a nearby garden, against local wishes. Both were erected by Spencer Secretan for walkers on the footpaths over his land. the stones are believed to have originall formed a bridge over a stream on a nearby footpath.
      Best wishes
      Roger Nash

  3. Thank you so much for taking the time to send this reply. I do so love discovering the history of the landscape I walk through. Thinking of the people who have been there before enhances my enjoyment of the nature’s beauty.
    Take Care!

  4. Carol
    I would like to suggest you join us on our walks programme in 2015. It will start on the first Tuesday of May at 7.00pm. Further details will appear on the website in about February. This year’s programme is I think still there. hopefully you are local enough to cosider it.

  5. Hello,
    My name is Andrew Naldrett. I have recently learnt that my ancestors were from Rudgwick. I believe one of them was John Naldrett, Yeoman of Rudgwick. I was wondering if you would have any information on John or the family.
    Kind regards.

    1. Andrew
      You have tapped into an interesting family history line! Before answering your question (though I haven’t investigated it thoroughly myself because it is complex), please tell me which John Naldrett and his dates/marriage etc. Please go to the contacts page on this website. Your email will come through directly to me, and more privately. I see you are yourself a Naldrett, so telling me in outline and simple terms how you got from John to Andrew would be helpful. ! will just say here that the Nadretts died out in Rudgwick, so the properties they owned went to the female line through other surnames. Sadly, not on your line of descent!

  6. I lived in Rudgwick in the mid 1940s to 1950s My father owned Rudgwick Bakery in church street what is the place like now.Also my grandfather used the pub the Martlets I believe this no longer. Have your society any images of this pub it was near the station on the corner of a road leading down to the station. Hope you can help

    1. Gordon, I can’t send photos by this method. If you email me via the website contacts page I can help. As for the bakery, it is no longer a shop, and has planning permission to create flats. i know it as Birchmores

  7. Hello, I have been researching my family tree and find they also hail from Rudgwick in the 18th and 19th centuries. My direct line is the Hill family but associated with the Linfields, Luffs and Longhursts. Would you happen to know anything about them in the village?i came to visit the church last week with my son and to look for graves but we didn’t find much.

    1. Thank you for your enquiry. the only Hill family I know kept the Chequers Inn at Rowhook. Likewise the Longhursts kept the Mucky Duck. Linfield and Luff are common names in Sussex. If you give me exact dates of death I can look up our burial index. Please reply on our contacts page, so the email comes through to me.

  8. Hello, my name is Teresa Turner, I wondering if you have any information regarding Peggy’s Path,? It is a cut through from Church Street onto Princess Margaret Road. I understand it was named after a resident if the village. Just wondered what the history was and why it was named after her.
    Kind regards

    1. I believe it was Peggy Walker, nee Botting, who lived in the cottage that became part of The Fox Inn. She wrote a little booklet, Rudgwick memories, now out of print.

      1. Peggy was also the the Lollypop Lady. As children in the early 80’s we would cross the road at that point and walk down the path, now known as Peggy’s Path to the school at Tates Way.

      2. Thank you, Ali. Peggy must have been a fount of knowledge. such people are few and far between nowadays. We don’t even have a lollypop person!

  9. It would appear that there is not much history recorded about the life in rudgwick ,or other nearby villages, for that matter, between the two roman occupations.
    Presumably the various stopping points along Stane street going north might yield some records ? However, l suppose there was not a recordable sense of a national identity in saxon ti mes as the south of england was mainly agricultural ly focussed and fragmented into minor kingdoms whose main interests were probably more inward looking.
    The discovery of the dinosaur is interesting. Are there any records of in which geological strata it was found, and whether an y further investigations have been carried out in this strata? Perhaps in other villages?
    Please note that by my personal comments l am trying to elicit more information about earlier times particularly in Rudgwick.I am fascinated by the geology of the weald and how it has influenced village life and fortunes. The downland museum perhaps is a good start point but a bit far to travel frequently when perhaps there is a lot of more pertinent info with the preservation society??

  10. Hello. I too am descended from the NALDRETT family in Rudgwick. I can trace back to about 1235 to Richard NALDRETT all the way down to Dorothy NALDRETT (1582-1638) who then married a John CHEALE from Edburton on 8 June 1602 at Edburton, and so from then on, no more NALDRETT family members and of course nothing further at Rudgwick. I don’t live far from Rudgwick and intend to visit the area one day when Covid permits.

    1. Please also get in touch with us by the ‘contacts’ page on this website so we can email each other. Look forward perhaps to meet you if you come to see us!

  11. Hello, I was wondering if you had any information regarding the Swaynes property. It is a magnificent house but cannot find much about it online. Perhaps any information you have, the owners, or if it will be for sale soon?
    Many thanks

    1. First of all, we are not estate agents, not can I give information about the current owners! Swaynes is only as big as it is from 19th century extensions. The original farmhouse was mid to late 17th century. Swaines as it used to be spelt was a farm which stretched from the R Arun up the slopes across the A281 to higher ground. There are also some lovely old oaks around the house.

  12. Hello – my maiden name is Lesley KNIGHT and I am trying to trace the history of my line of Knights (I think there were probably swarms of them in the neighbouring villages!). I can trace back only to James Knight (b. 1769 in Rudgwick), who married Alice BROOKER (b. 1762, Rudgwick), in May 1792, also in the village. There seems to be so little information (census records etc), for my branch of Knights, which is very frustrating. I am wondering if you can recommend any particular sources that I could try? – or whether you have any information on the farming inhabitants of Rudgwick in the 1700s, or before? Many thanks, Lesley

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The past, present and future of Rudgwick

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